Chef Francis Ang
Prepping peaches for a kamayan dinner
From tragedy came focus
In 2013, Francis was already in the midst of a great culinary career; tapped by Food and Wine magazine as "People's Best Pastry Chef" for the West, and currently working as the Pastry Chef of Fifth Floor restaurant. But his true culinary passion came into focus while traveling in the Philippines. He and his wife Dian were caught in Typhoon Yolanda, one of the strongest tropical cyclones ever recorded, and the deadliest to strike the Philippines. While they made it through safely, nearby villages were completely wiped out with over 6,000 fatalities. The devastation was widespread and profound. After helping with immediate relief efforts, they returned to the States wanting to do more. Francis and the Fifth Floor organized a fundraiser dinner to benefit the victims of the typhoon. Serving a Filipino menu, the seeds for his current venture, Pinoy Heritage, were planted.
Today, Pinoy Heritage offers a regular series of pop ups, with menus ranging from bar food served at PCH (Pacific Cocktail Haven), to monthly kamayan dinners, and seasonal tasting menus. The core team consists of Chef Francis Ang and Chef Danica Aviles in the kitchen, while Dian Ty-Ang runs front of house and marketing.
The following notes and photos are the results of my working with the PH team for a kamayan dinner and 2 tasting menu dinners. I also attended a third dinner as a guest.
The Pinoy Heritage kamayan dinners will feel familiar to anyone who has experienced a traditional Filipino feast. This communal dinner is served on a single table covered in banana leaves, with all of the food running down the center of the table. Food is eaten with your hands, which results in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere, scattered grains of rice, and messy napkins.
The evening starts with appetizers, including ceviche on taro chips, garnished with watermelon radish and cilantro, and in a perfect blending of Francis’ culinary experience, a savory choux au craquelin filled with creamed greens.
While the kamayan presentation is traditional, Francis puts his own spin on classic dishes. Pork Sinigang, a pork and tamarind soup has become a bowl of deeply flavored broth, garnished with shaved radish, okra, and blanched long beans, which have been tied into small knots. The roast suckling pig has been replaced by pork belly, cooked sous vide and then fried to create the perfect crackling skin. Roast marinated chickens are instagram worthy with their garnish of flowers. The whole fish are scored and fried until even the fins become a crispy, crunchy treat (one of Danica’s favorites). The assorted vegetables and fruit are the best of the farmers market, included roasted heads of cauliflower, corn, grilled peaches from K&J Orchards, white eggplant, and baby watermelon wedges, all tucked in amongst the scoops of rice and bowls of soup. Guests make their own dipping sauces for the proteins guided by suggestions from Francis and his team.
After eating and drinking their fill, guests finish their meal with a playful Ice Candy, studded with seasonal fruit.
While the concept and flavors are pure Pinoy, the kamayan dinner leverages Western techniques to create a new and modern experience and is deeply driven by local ingredients and seasonality.
